Under-Bench Bar Fridge Guide — Measuring, Installation & Top Picks (2026)
Under-Bench Bar Fridge Guide — Measuring, Installation and Top Picks
An under-bench bar fridge sits flush beneath a countertop, giving you cold drinks without taking up floor space. They're the standard choice for home bars, kitchens, offices, and anywhere a freestanding fridge would be in the way. But getting the right one means measuring properly, understanding ventilation, and knowing the difference between under-bench and integrated models.
This guide walks through the full process: how to measure your cavity, what front-venting means and why it matters, our top picks by use case, and the installation mistakes to avoid.
What Is an Under-Bench Bar Fridge?
An under-bench bar fridge is designed to fit inside a cabinet cavity beneath a countertop. The critical difference from a freestanding fridge is ventilation: under-bench models vent heat from the front (through the kickplate area), not from the back or sides. This means they can be enclosed on three sides without overheating.
A standard freestanding fridge vents from the rear and sides. If you push a freestanding model into a cavity, it can't expel heat properly, the compressor works harder, energy consumption spikes, and the fridge eventually fails. This is the most common mistake people make — buying a freestanding unit and trying to install it under a bench.
Rule of thumb: If the fridge is going inside cabinetry, it must be front-venting. No exceptions.
How to Measure Your Cavity
Accurate measurements are everything. A fridge that's 10mm too wide doesn't fit, and one that's 50mm too short leaves an ugly gap. Here's how to measure properly.
Width
Measure the internal width of the cavity at the front and back. Cabinets aren't always perfectly square — take both measurements and use the smaller number. Allow 5-10mm clearance on each side for ease of installation. If the cavity is 600mm wide, your fridge should be no wider than 585mm.
Height
Measure from the floor (or base of the cavity) to the underside of the benchtop. Standard Australian bench height is 870-900mm, but custom kitchens and bars vary. Account for any plinth or kickplate at the bottom. Your fridge height plus any adjustable feet or castors must fit under the benchtop with at least 5mm clearance above.
Depth
Measure from the front edge of the cavity to the back wall. Check for plumbing, power outlets, or anything protruding from the back wall that reduces usable depth. The fridge door should sit flush with or slightly behind the front edge of the cabinetry when closed.
Power Supply
Ensure there's a power outlet inside or immediately behind the cavity. The power cord needs to reach without stretching or kinking. Most under-bench fridges have a rear-exit cord — check the spec sheet for cord length (typically 1.5-2 metres).
Fitted vs External Dimensions
Every under-bench fridge has two sets of dimensions:
- External dimensions: The physical size of the fridge body (width x depth x height). This is what needs to fit in your cavity.
- Fitted dimensions: The recommended cavity size including clearances for ventilation and installation. Always use fitted dimensions when planning your cavity.
Some manufacturers list a third dimension — "with door open" — which tells you how much clearance you need in front of the fridge for the door to open fully. Important if the fridge faces a wall or opposite cabinetry in a narrow space.
Ventilation Requirements
Front-venting under-bench fridges expel heat through the grille at the bottom front of the unit (the kickplate area). This is what allows them to be enclosed on three sides. However, the front grille must never be blocked.
- Do not place a decorative panel over the kickplate area unless the fridge is specifically designed for it (integrated models).
- Keep the area below and in front of the fridge clear of debris, rugs, or items that could restrict airflow.
- If installing in a fully enclosed cabinet, ensure the front is open or has adequate ventilation slots.
Some larger under-bench models also benefit from 10-20mm clearance at the sides, even though they're front-venting. Check the installation manual for your specific model.
Under-Bench vs Integrated — What's the Difference?
These terms are often used interchangeably, but they're different:
- Under-bench: A fridge designed to fit in a cavity with its own visible door and kickplate. It looks like a fridge sitting inside cabinetry. The fridge door and handle are visible.
- Integrated (built-in): A fridge designed to accept a custom cabinetry panel on the door, so the fridge visually disappears into the kitchen. The door matches the surrounding cabinetry. These models have specific hinge systems to support the weight of a cabinet door panel.
Integrated models cost more and require a cabinetmaker to fit the door panel. But the result is a seamless kitchen or bar where you can't tell there's a fridge at all. Under-bench models are simpler, cheaper, and work perfectly when a visible fridge door is fine.
Browse our integrated fridge range if seamless cabinetry integration is what you're after.
Top Under-Bench Bar Fridges
Best for Home Bars: Schmick JC165 — 165L Dual Zone
The JC165 is purpose-built for under-bench installation with front ventilation and a slim profile. The dual-zone feature is a standout — two independently controlled temperature compartments let you keep beers at 2°C and wines at 14°C in the same unit. 165 litres is generous for a home bar without being oversized. Glass door with LED lighting. 43dB. $1,365.15.
View full specs and buy — Schmick JC165
Best for Large Cavities: Schmick SK245-HD — 274L Under Bench 2 Door
If you have a wider cavity and need maximum capacity, the SK245-HD delivers 274 litres across two doors. The double-door configuration lets you organise drinks by type — beers on one side, wines and mixers on the other. This is a serious piece of kit for dedicated home bars, commercial venues, and offices. 43dB. $1,754.65.
View full specs and buy — Schmick SK245-HD
See more double-door options in our double door bar fridge collection.
Best for Seamless Kitchens: Schmick MSL110 — Integrated Built-In Fridge Freezer
The MSL110 is a true integrated unit — it accepts a custom cabinetry panel so the fridge disappears into your kitchen design. It includes both a fridge and freezer compartment, making it a practical everyday appliance as well as a bar fridge. Ideal for modern kitchens where visible appliances break the design flow. 39dB — quiet enough for open-plan living. $947.15.
View full specs and buy — Schmick MSL110
Installation Steps
Once you've measured and chosen your fridge, installation is straightforward:
- Step 1: Confirm the cavity dimensions match the fridge's fitted dimensions (including clearances).
- Step 2: Check that a suitable power outlet is accessible inside or behind the cavity. The fridge must plug directly into a wall outlet — not a powerboard or extension lead.
- Step 3: Remove packaging and any transit brackets or tape from the fridge.
- Step 4: Adjust the feet or castors to level the fridge. Use a spirit level across the top — an unlevel fridge doesn't seal properly and wastes energy.
- Step 5: Slide the fridge into the cavity. Feed the power cord through the back or side gap to the outlet.
- Step 6: Connect to power and allow 2-4 hours for the fridge to reach operating temperature before loading with drinks.
- Step 7: Check the door opens and closes freely without hitting cabinetry on either side.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Using a freestanding fridge in a cavity. The most common and most costly mistake. Freestanding units vent from the back and sides — enclosed, they overheat and fail. Always use a front-venting under-bench model.
- Not measuring depth properly. Forgetting to account for rear plumbing, power outlets, or the door handle protruding past the cabinetry face.
- Blocking the kickplate ventilation. Placing mats, decorative panels, or storage in front of the front grille starves the fridge of airflow.
- Skipping the levelling step. An unlevel fridge doesn't seal properly, causing condensation, uneven cooling, and higher energy use.
- Not checking door swing clearance. In galley kitchens or narrow bars, the fridge door may hit the opposite wall or cabinetry when fully open.
Custom Branding for Under-Bench Fridges
Under-bench fridges are popular for custom branding in commercial venues — bars, restaurants, cafes, and offices. A branded fridge under the bar counter with your logo on the glass door is subtle but effective marketing. We offer custom vinyl wraps and frosted glass decals on most under-bench models.
Explore custom branded fridges for your venue or home bar.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I put a regular fridge under a bench?
No. Regular freestanding fridges vent heat from the back and sides. Enclosing them in a cavity blocks ventilation, causes overheating, and will shorten the fridge's life significantly. You need a purpose-built under-bench model with front ventilation.
What is the standard cavity size for an under-bench fridge?
Standard single-door cavities are typically 580-600mm wide, 550-580mm deep, and 820-860mm high (below the benchtop). Always check the specific fridge's fitted dimensions — there's no universal standard, and even 5mm matters.
Do under-bench fridges need a water connection?
No. Under-bench bar fridges only need a power outlet. They don't require plumbing or a water connection. Any condensation is managed internally by the fridge's drainage system.
How much clearance does an under-bench fridge need?
Most front-venting under-bench models need 5-10mm clearance on each side, 5mm above, and no rear clearance beyond what the power cord requires. The front kickplate area must be unobstructed for ventilation. Check your model's installation manual for specific requirements.
Can I install an under-bench fridge myself?
Yes. Under-bench fridge installation is a simple plug-and-slide process — no plumber or electrician required (assuming a power outlet is already in place). Integrated models with custom door panels may need a cabinetmaker for the door fitting.
Browse the full under-bench bar fridge collection to find the right fit for your cavity.
Under-Bench Bar Fridge Guide — Measuring, Installation & Top Picks (2026)
Under-Bench Bar Fridge Guide — Measuring, Installation and Top Picks
An under-bench bar fridge sits flush beneath a countertop, giving you cold drinks without taking up floor space. They're the standard choice for home bars, kitchens, offices, and anywhere a freestanding fridge would be in the way. But getting the right one means measuring properly, understanding ventilation, and knowing the difference between under-bench and integrated models.
This guide walks through the full process: how to measure your cavity, what front-venting means and why it matters, our top picks by use case, and the installation mistakes to avoid.
What Is an Under-Bench Bar Fridge?
An under-bench bar fridge is designed to fit inside a cabinet cavity beneath a countertop. The critical difference from a freestanding fridge is ventilation: under-bench models vent heat from the front (through the kickplate area), not from the back or sides. This means they can be enclosed on three sides without overheating.
A standard freestanding fridge vents from the rear and sides. If you push a freestanding model into a cavity, it can't expel heat properly, the compressor works harder, energy consumption spikes, and the fridge eventually fails. This is the most common mistake people make — buying a freestanding unit and trying to install it under a bench.
Rule of thumb: If the fridge is going inside cabinetry, it must be front-venting. No exceptions.
How to Measure Your Cavity
Accurate measurements are everything. A fridge that's 10mm too wide doesn't fit, and one that's 50mm too short leaves an ugly gap. Here's how to measure properly.
Width
Measure the internal width of the cavity at the front and back. Cabinets aren't always perfectly square — take both measurements and use the smaller number. Allow 5-10mm clearance on each side for ease of installation. If the cavity is 600mm wide, your fridge should be no wider than 585mm.
Height
Measure from the floor (or base of the cavity) to the underside of the benchtop. Standard Australian bench height is 870-900mm, but custom kitchens and bars vary. Account for any plinth or kickplate at the bottom. Your fridge height plus any adjustable feet or castors must fit under the benchtop with at least 5mm clearance above.
Depth
Measure from the front edge of the cavity to the back wall. Check for plumbing, power outlets, or anything protruding from the back wall that reduces usable depth. The fridge door should sit flush with or slightly behind the front edge of the cabinetry when closed.
Power Supply
Ensure there's a power outlet inside or immediately behind the cavity. The power cord needs to reach without stretching or kinking. Most under-bench fridges have a rear-exit cord — check the spec sheet for cord length (typically 1.5-2 metres).
Fitted vs External Dimensions
Every under-bench fridge has two sets of dimensions:
- External dimensions: The physical size of the fridge body (width x depth x height). This is what needs to fit in your cavity.
- Fitted dimensions: The recommended cavity size including clearances for ventilation and installation. Always use fitted dimensions when planning your cavity.
Some manufacturers list a third dimension — "with door open" — which tells you how much clearance you need in front of the fridge for the door to open fully. Important if the fridge faces a wall or opposite cabinetry in a narrow space.
Ventilation Requirements
Front-venting under-bench fridges expel heat through the grille at the bottom front of the unit (the kickplate area). This is what allows them to be enclosed on three sides. However, the front grille must never be blocked.
- Do not place a decorative panel over the kickplate area unless the fridge is specifically designed for it (integrated models).
- Keep the area below and in front of the fridge clear of debris, rugs, or items that could restrict airflow.
- If installing in a fully enclosed cabinet, ensure the front is open or has adequate ventilation slots.
Some larger under-bench models also benefit from 10-20mm clearance at the sides, even though they're front-venting. Check the installation manual for your specific model.
Under-Bench vs Integrated — What's the Difference?
These terms are often used interchangeably, but they're different:
- Under-bench: A fridge designed to fit in a cavity with its own visible door and kickplate. It looks like a fridge sitting inside cabinetry. The fridge door and handle are visible.
- Integrated (built-in): A fridge designed to accept a custom cabinetry panel on the door, so the fridge visually disappears into the kitchen. The door matches the surrounding cabinetry. These models have specific hinge systems to support the weight of a cabinet door panel.
Integrated models cost more and require a cabinetmaker to fit the door panel. But the result is a seamless kitchen or bar where you can't tell there's a fridge at all. Under-bench models are simpler, cheaper, and work perfectly when a visible fridge door is fine.
Browse our integrated fridge range if seamless cabinetry integration is what you're after.
Top Under-Bench Bar Fridges
Best for Home Bars: Schmick JC165 — 165L Dual Zone
The JC165 is purpose-built for under-bench installation with front ventilation and a slim profile. The dual-zone feature is a standout — two independently controlled temperature compartments let you keep beers at 2°C and wines at 14°C in the same unit. 165 litres is generous for a home bar without being oversized. Glass door with LED lighting. 43dB. $1,365.15.
View full specs and buy — Schmick JC165
Best for Large Cavities: Schmick SK245-HD — 274L Under Bench 2 Door
If you have a wider cavity and need maximum capacity, the SK245-HD delivers 274 litres across two doors. The double-door configuration lets you organise drinks by type — beers on one side, wines and mixers on the other. This is a serious piece of kit for dedicated home bars, commercial venues, and offices. 43dB. $1,754.65.
View full specs and buy — Schmick SK245-HD
See more double-door options in our double door bar fridge collection.
Best for Seamless Kitchens: Schmick MSL110 — Integrated Built-In Fridge Freezer
The MSL110 is a true integrated unit — it accepts a custom cabinetry panel so the fridge disappears into your kitchen design. It includes both a fridge and freezer compartment, making it a practical everyday appliance as well as a bar fridge. Ideal for modern kitchens where visible appliances break the design flow. 39dB — quiet enough for open-plan living. $947.15.
View full specs and buy — Schmick MSL110
Installation Steps
Once you've measured and chosen your fridge, installation is straightforward:
- Step 1: Confirm the cavity dimensions match the fridge's fitted dimensions (including clearances).
- Step 2: Check that a suitable power outlet is accessible inside or behind the cavity. The fridge must plug directly into a wall outlet — not a powerboard or extension lead.
- Step 3: Remove packaging and any transit brackets or tape from the fridge.
- Step 4: Adjust the feet or castors to level the fridge. Use a spirit level across the top — an unlevel fridge doesn't seal properly and wastes energy.
- Step 5: Slide the fridge into the cavity. Feed the power cord through the back or side gap to the outlet.
- Step 6: Connect to power and allow 2-4 hours for the fridge to reach operating temperature before loading with drinks.
- Step 7: Check the door opens and closes freely without hitting cabinetry on either side.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Using a freestanding fridge in a cavity. The most common and most costly mistake. Freestanding units vent from the back and sides — enclosed, they overheat and fail. Always use a front-venting under-bench model.
- Not measuring depth properly. Forgetting to account for rear plumbing, power outlets, or the door handle protruding past the cabinetry face.
- Blocking the kickplate ventilation. Placing mats, decorative panels, or storage in front of the front grille starves the fridge of airflow.
- Skipping the levelling step. An unlevel fridge doesn't seal properly, causing condensation, uneven cooling, and higher energy use.
- Not checking door swing clearance. In galley kitchens or narrow bars, the fridge door may hit the opposite wall or cabinetry when fully open.
Custom Branding for Under-Bench Fridges
Under-bench fridges are popular for custom branding in commercial venues — bars, restaurants, cafes, and offices. A branded fridge under the bar counter with your logo on the glass door is subtle but effective marketing. We offer custom vinyl wraps and frosted glass decals on most under-bench models.
Explore custom branded fridges for your venue or home bar.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I put a regular fridge under a bench?
No. Regular freestanding fridges vent heat from the back and sides. Enclosing them in a cavity blocks ventilation, causes overheating, and will shorten the fridge's life significantly. You need a purpose-built under-bench model with front ventilation.
What is the standard cavity size for an under-bench fridge?
Standard single-door cavities are typically 580-600mm wide, 550-580mm deep, and 820-860mm high (below the benchtop). Always check the specific fridge's fitted dimensions — there's no universal standard, and even 5mm matters.
Do under-bench fridges need a water connection?
No. Under-bench bar fridges only need a power outlet. They don't require plumbing or a water connection. Any condensation is managed internally by the fridge's drainage system.
How much clearance does an under-bench fridge need?
Most front-venting under-bench models need 5-10mm clearance on each side, 5mm above, and no rear clearance beyond what the power cord requires. The front kickplate area must be unobstructed for ventilation. Check your model's installation manual for specific requirements.
Can I install an under-bench fridge myself?
Yes. Under-bench fridge installation is a simple plug-and-slide process — no plumber or electrician required (assuming a power outlet is already in place). Integrated models with custom door panels may need a cabinetmaker for the door fitting.
Browse the full under-bench bar fridge collection to find the right fit for your cavity.