How to Clean a Stainless Steel Bar Fridge (Coast, Glass, Black Stainless)
Complete stainless steel bar fridge care guide — daily routine, coastal salt air, 316 vs 304, glass doors and black stainless. Sourced from ASSDA, BSSA, SSINA, Sub-Zero, Liebherr, Bosch, Whirlpool, Vintec.
A bar fridge lives a hard life: fingerprints, spills, the occasional lemon wedge, and — if you live near the coast — a thin film of airborne sea salt. This guide draws on the stainless industry bodies (ASSDA, BSSA, SSINA, worldstainless) and the appliance manufacturers who put these finishes on fridge doors (Sub-Zero, Bosch, Whirlpool, Liebherr, Vintec, True Residential).
Why stainless steel needs care at all
"Stainless" is a misnomer. Food oils and everyday grime accumulate on the surface and can eventually cause corrosion if left in place. Every rule that follows flows from that.
Always: on a polished or brushed finish, wipe in the direction of the polish grain, not across it. Never: bleach, chloride-containing detergents, or carbon-steel scouring pads — they leave scratch marks and cause corrosion.
Q1: Routine day-to-day care
The default routine
Clean regularly with plenty of water; drying afterwards prevents streaky marks. A damp cloth alone is not as effective as washing — it can smear dirt without removing it. Plenty of water, a little mild detergent, and a cloth or soft brush will do the job. A weekly wipe-down with a stainless cleaner or damp washcloth keeps the finish bright.
Find the direction of the grain first — it may run horizontal, vertical, or diagonal on a fridge door. Wash with a soft cloth and mild, soapy water, then dry. On polished finishes, rubbing or wiping should be done in the direction of the polish lines, not across them.
Products to use
Warm water, soap, ammonia, or detergent on a sponge or soft cloth are effective on all finishes. A 1% ammonia solution in warm, low-chloride water also works. Sub-Zero recommends a lint-free or microfibre cloth with a stainless steel cleaner, then a polish to maintain lustre and protect against future food stains. Sub-Zero specifies 70% rubbing alcohol on a clean microfibre cloth, wiped with the grain, air-dried.
For fingerprints that mild detergent will not shift: glass cleaner on a soft cloth, or small amounts of alcohol, methylated spirits, acetone, or mineral turpentine, followed by a clean-water rinse and dry. Dedicated stainless polishes — Bar Keepers Friend Stainless Steel Cleaner and Polish, 3M Stainless Steel Cleaner and Polish, Arcal 20, Lumin Wash, and others — do two jobs at once: they clean and leave a barrier film that minimises future fingerprints. White vinegar and rubbing alcohol are also safe on stainless for hard-water stains.
Products to avoid
The don'ts are consistent across every industry body:
- No bleach, ever.
- No chloride-containing detergents.
- No scouring powders — even the finest can scratch or burnish a mill-rolled finish.
- No carbon-steel scouring pads — scratch marks and corrosion.
- No silver-dip cleaners — corrosive to stainless steel.
- No chlorine-based or abrasive cleaners.
For exterior grime such as dried mortar or hard-water scale, never use brick-cleaning liquids containing hydrochloric acid. If you need an acid wash, hot 25% acetic acid (vinegar) or warm 10% phosphoric acid are effective, followed by neutralising with dilute ammonia or sodium bicarbonate, then rinsing and drying. Stainless also discolours if left in contact with salts or acids; avoid leaving carbon-steel items on it, particularly if wet.
Q2: Does a coastal or salt-air location change the rules?
Yes — materially. The mechanism is "tea staining"
Tea staining is the industry name for a cosmetic discolouration of the surface of stainless steel caused by corrosion. It does not affect structural integrity or lifetime — but it is exactly the kind of degradation a bar-fridge owner notices. It occurs most commonly within about five kilometres of the surf and worsens closer to the marine source; wind exposure, pollution, local sheltering, and higher temperatures can push it 20 kilometres or more inland.
Sea salt is worse than table salt because of physics. It stays wet until very low relative humidity, so the fridge surface stays wet — and corroding — longer than it would with ordinary sodium chloride. Pair that with tropical humidity and heat and you have ideal conditions for tea staining. The problem has been reported in domestic, coastal, industrial, and urban settings, tracing back to grade choice, fabrication, finish, and cleaning habits.
Extra steps at the coast
Wash more often. Wash regularly with soap or detergent, or a 1% ammonia solution, in warm, low-chloride water, using cloths or soft brushes, then dry to reduce smears. The key phrase is "low-chloride water" — fresh water, not bore water through a pressure-washer.
Pay attention to crevices. Deep grooves or metal folds trap salts; when the surface dries, salts concentrate, and a deep groove holds water and salt for longer, exposing its base to chloride levels above the steel's resistance. On a bar fridge, that means handles, hinges, kickplate edges, and seams around the door. Splash zones and surfaces where water concentrates by evaporation are at higher risk.
Do not reach for harsh chemistry at the first brown bloom. Abrasive cleaners and those containing chlorides or bleach must not be used on stainless — they damage the surface. Simple mechanical polishing is unlikely to both remove and prevent tea staining; reasonably simple chemical cleaning and passivation is usually the most effective treatment.
Q3: Does 316 stainless actually reduce maintenance vs 304?
The chemistry
Grade 316 has virtually the same mechanical, physical, and fabrication characteristics as 304, but better corrosion resistance — particularly against pitting in chloride environments. The difference is molybdenum, which makes 316 "desirable where the possibility of severe corrosion exists, such as heavy industrial atmospheres and marine environments". 316 is the second-most-popular stainless grade, roughly 20% of all stainless produced.
What that means for a bar-fridge buyer
316's main practical advantage over 304 is greater resistance to pitting and crevice corrosion in warm chloride environments, which is why it is chosen for sea-front buildings and fittings on wharves and piers. For a bar fridge within a few kilometres of the surf, that means slower onset of tea staining and fewer maintenance cycles.
The caveats matter. 316 is not "corrosion proof" in seawater contact — 316 and 304 are susceptible to localised attack, principally crevice and pitting corrosion, which limits their scope in seawater service. Even brackish waters carry chloride levels above the threshold for crevice corrosion, and evaporation in splash zones makes it worse by concentrating chlorides. 316 can also suffer stress corrosion cracking in hot chloride environments above about 50°C. The 304 and especially free-machining 303 grades should not be considered for seawater service at all.
For a buyer, 316 buys a wider margin for cleaning lapses, not immunity. The same care rules apply: clean along the grain, rinse away chlorides, dry, and avoid bleach.
Q4: Glass door care
Evidence is thinner on this one. No major fridge manufacturer publishes a dedicated page on cleaning a bar-fridge glass door, so the guidance below combines worldstainless's household cleaning FAQ, Liebherr's general fridge-cleaning instructions, and Vintec's cellar-care advice for the door seal.
The basic routine
Chloride-free glass spray cleaners are effective on mirror-polished stainless surfaces. On mirror-like finishes, glass cleaners perform well and a soft cloth or damp microfibre is usually enough. Apply cleaner to the cloth, not the door, so overspray does not run into seals, lights, or ventilation grilles. Do not allow cleaning water to enter the drainage channel, the ventilation grills, or any electrical parts.
Watch the coating language in your manual. Liebherr's SmartSteel guidance is explicit: use only a soft clean cloth on coated door surfaces, and never use stainless steel cleaner on SmartSteel. If your bar fridge has a coated or tinted glass panel, treat it the same way: mild soap or a chloride-free glass spray on a soft cloth, no abrasives, no chlorides.
The door seal — the bit people miss
The sealing strip around the door must be cleaned regularly to prevent discolouration and prolong service life, using clean water inside every indentation in the rib. After cleaning, check that the seal still provides a tight close. For mould in the seal, a 50/50 vinegar-and-water solution kills the spores, followed by drying and a sodium bicarbonate wipe. A leaky seal is more than a comfort issue: it costs energy and encourages condensation — and condensation is how chloride-bearing moisture concentrates on the steel around the door.
Q5: Keeping both the steel and the glass polished for years
For the steel, the best long-term strategy combines washing with a light protective step. Sub-Zero advises a polish after cleaning to maintain lustre and protect against future food stains, always in the direction of the grain. Products such as 3M Stainless Steel Cleaner and Polish leave a barrier film that minimises fingerprints. Bar Keepers Friend's method is similar: spray its Stainless Steel Cleaner and Polish onto the surface, wipe with the grain, then buff with the dry side of the cloth.
For high-traffic areas — the handle zone especially — lightly rub with olive oil or baby oil, followed by a polish and shine with a soft cloth. A thin oil film blunts fingerprints and adds a second line of defence against airborne moisture. The flip side: do not let oily hands, tomato splashes, or vinegar-based sprays sit on the surface. Stainless discolours when left in contact with salts or acids for extended periods.
The glass follows the opposite philosophy. No oils, no polishes, no barrier films — they all leave streaks. Use a chloride-free glass spray or a soft damp microfibre. A quick buff with the dry side of the cloth after each wipe-down keeps the door looking new.
Two universal rules sit behind all of this. Handle stainless with clean gloves or cloths to avoid stains and finger marks, and avoid oily rags when wiping. Where possible, rinse thoroughly with water after cleaning.
Q6: Black powder-coated or "black stainless" — does the coating reduce care?
Coatings are where the evidence gets thinner again. No industry body has published a dedicated paper on powder-coated residential refrigerator finishes. The closest authoritative sources are BSSA's general paper on painting and coating stainless steel and the appliance manufacturers' own black-stainless care instructions. The section below therefore avoids specific longevity numbers.
What "black stainless" usually is
In appliance-land, "black stainless" is a coating applied over a stainless (typically 304) or other steel substrate — not a separate grade. Two independent manufacturers converge on the same rules:
- Bosch: clean with mild soapy water and a soft cloth only; stainless steel conditioner must not be applied to black stainless, logos, or control labels.
- Whirlpool: mild soap and warm water on a clean soft cloth or microfibre, dried with another clean soft cloth to avoid streaking.
Neither brand permits chlorine bleach, abrasive cleaners, soap-filled scouring pads, steel-wool pads, gritty washcloths, or paper towels on a fingerprint-resistant coating.
Does the coating reduce corrosion care?
Somewhat, with a trade-off. Stainless is normally used because of its corrosion resistance without additional coatings, but in certain circumstances a paint finish is chosen deliberately. The catch: in certain environments, localised breakdown of the coating can lead to corrosion more severe than on uncoated surfaces, with high, localised rates of attack. A chip at a door edge can become the worst corrosion site on the fridge, rather than the best.
A fabrication gotcha becomes a care gotcha: stainless steels have flatter, smoother surfaces than carbon steels, particularly on thin cold-rolled products, which can hurt adhesion between metal and coating. Any paint system on stainless requires a roughened surface prepared by abrasive blasting, light hand abrasion, or chemical etching. For an owner: do not abrade the coating yourself, do not scrape chips with a knife, and do not use paints containing metallic zinc on stainless — zinc embrittlement of the substrate can occur in fire conditions.
Trade-off summary
A fingerprint-resistant coating hides fingerprints. It also introduces a failure mode the bare steel does not have: chip-to-rust. Cleaning is narrower — soap and water only, no conditioners, no abrasives, no bleach. The coating is both your warranty and your liability.
Cheat sheet
- Weekly: microfibre plus mild detergent, wiped in the direction of the grain, then dried.
- Monthly at the coast: a fresh, low-chloride-water rinse and dry, with extra attention to handle, hinge, and kickplate crevices where chlorides concentrate.
- Never: bleach, chlorine-based cleaners, carbon-steel scouring pads, hydrochloric or muriatic brick cleaners, or abrasive powders on a polished finish.
- For glass: a chloride-free glass spray or soft damp microfibre, applied to the cloth, not the door.
- For 316 vs 304 near salt air: 316 widens your chloride margin and delays pitting, but it is not corrosion-proof in seawater contact.
- For black stainless or fingerprint-resistant coatings: soap and water only, no conditioners or polishes, and protect the coating from chips.
Sources
- FAQ 2: Cleaning Your Indoor Stainless Steel (ASSDA)
- FAQ 6: Preventing Coastal Corrosion (Tea Staining) (ASSDA)
- 316: The First Step Up (ASSDA)
- Selection of 316, 304 and 303 types of stainless steels for seawater applications (BSSA)
- Sub Zero Appliance Stainless Steel and Platinum Cleaning (Sub-Zero)
- How to Clean Stainless Steel Appliances (Bar Keepers Friend)
- The Care and Cleaning of Stainless Steel (SSINA)
- Cleaning Stainless Steel in the Home (Euro Inox / worldstainless)
- Cleaning and maintaining your refrigerator (Liebherr)
- Refrigerator Maintenance: How to clean your fridge (Bosch)
- Cleaning Fingerprint Resistant Stainless Steel - Refrigerator (Whirlpool)
- Paint coating stainless steels (BSSA)
- Cleaning of exterior stainless steel (ASSDA)
- 6 Expert Tips For Cellar Care (Vintec)
- Understanding Corrosion - Chapter 4: Tea staining (worldstainless)
- Keeping It Clean (True Residential)
How to Clean a Stainless Steel Bar Fridge (Coast, Glass, Black Stainless)
Complete stainless steel bar fridge care guide — daily routine, coastal salt air, 316 vs 304, glass doors and black stainless. Sourced from ASSDA, BSSA, SSINA, Sub-Zero, Liebherr, Bosch, Whirlpool, Vintec.
Complete stainless steel bar fridge care guide — daily routine, coastal salt air, 316 vs 304, glass doors and black stainless. Sourced from ASSDA, BSSA, SSINA, Sub-Zero, Liebherr, Bosch, Whirlpool, Vintec.
A bar fridge lives a hard life: fingerprints, spills, the occasional lemon wedge, and — if you live near the coast — a thin film of airborne sea salt. This guide draws on the stainless industry bodies (ASSDA, BSSA, SSINA, worldstainless) and the appliance manufacturers who put these finishes on fridge doors (Sub-Zero, Bosch, Whirlpool, Liebherr, Vintec, True Residential).
Why stainless steel needs care at all
"Stainless" is a misnomer. Food oils and everyday grime accumulate on the surface and can eventually cause corrosion if left in place. Every rule that follows flows from that.
Always: on a polished or brushed finish, wipe in the direction of the polish grain, not across it. Never: bleach, chloride-containing detergents, or carbon-steel scouring pads — they leave scratch marks and cause corrosion.
Q1: Routine day-to-day care
The default routine
Clean regularly with plenty of water; drying afterwards prevents streaky marks. A damp cloth alone is not as effective as washing — it can smear dirt without removing it. Plenty of water, a little mild detergent, and a cloth or soft brush will do the job. A weekly wipe-down with a stainless cleaner or damp washcloth keeps the finish bright.
Find the direction of the grain first — it may run horizontal, vertical, or diagonal on a fridge door. Wash with a soft cloth and mild, soapy water, then dry. On polished finishes, rubbing or wiping should be done in the direction of the polish lines, not across them.
Products to use
Warm water, soap, ammonia, or detergent on a sponge or soft cloth are effective on all finishes. A 1% ammonia solution in warm, low-chloride water also works. Sub-Zero recommends a lint-free or microfibre cloth with a stainless steel cleaner, then a polish to maintain lustre and protect against future food stains. Sub-Zero specifies 70% rubbing alcohol on a clean microfibre cloth, wiped with the grain, air-dried.
For fingerprints that mild detergent will not shift: glass cleaner on a soft cloth, or small amounts of alcohol, methylated spirits, acetone, or mineral turpentine, followed by a clean-water rinse and dry. Dedicated stainless polishes — Bar Keepers Friend Stainless Steel Cleaner and Polish, 3M Stainless Steel Cleaner and Polish, Arcal 20, Lumin Wash, and others — do two jobs at once: they clean and leave a barrier film that minimises future fingerprints. White vinegar and rubbing alcohol are also safe on stainless for hard-water stains.
Products to avoid
The don'ts are consistent across every industry body:
- No bleach, ever.
- No chloride-containing detergents.
- No scouring powders — even the finest can scratch or burnish a mill-rolled finish.
- No carbon-steel scouring pads — scratch marks and corrosion.
- No silver-dip cleaners — corrosive to stainless steel.
- No chlorine-based or abrasive cleaners.
For exterior grime such as dried mortar or hard-water scale, never use brick-cleaning liquids containing hydrochloric acid. If you need an acid wash, hot 25% acetic acid (vinegar) or warm 10% phosphoric acid are effective, followed by neutralising with dilute ammonia or sodium bicarbonate, then rinsing and drying. Stainless also discolours if left in contact with salts or acids; avoid leaving carbon-steel items on it, particularly if wet.
Q2: Does a coastal or salt-air location change the rules?
Yes — materially. The mechanism is "tea staining"
Tea staining is the industry name for a cosmetic discolouration of the surface of stainless steel caused by corrosion. It does not affect structural integrity or lifetime — but it is exactly the kind of degradation a bar-fridge owner notices. It occurs most commonly within about five kilometres of the surf and worsens closer to the marine source; wind exposure, pollution, local sheltering, and higher temperatures can push it 20 kilometres or more inland.
Sea salt is worse than table salt because of physics. It stays wet until very low relative humidity, so the fridge surface stays wet — and corroding — longer than it would with ordinary sodium chloride. Pair that with tropical humidity and heat and you have ideal conditions for tea staining. The problem has been reported in domestic, coastal, industrial, and urban settings, tracing back to grade choice, fabrication, finish, and cleaning habits.
Extra steps at the coast
Wash more often. Wash regularly with soap or detergent, or a 1% ammonia solution, in warm, low-chloride water, using cloths or soft brushes, then dry to reduce smears. The key phrase is "low-chloride water" — fresh water, not bore water through a pressure-washer.
Pay attention to crevices. Deep grooves or metal folds trap salts; when the surface dries, salts concentrate, and a deep groove holds water and salt for longer, exposing its base to chloride levels above the steel's resistance. On a bar fridge, that means handles, hinges, kickplate edges, and seams around the door. Splash zones and surfaces where water concentrates by evaporation are at higher risk.
Do not reach for harsh chemistry at the first brown bloom. Abrasive cleaners and those containing chlorides or bleach must not be used on stainless — they damage the surface. Simple mechanical polishing is unlikely to both remove and prevent tea staining; reasonably simple chemical cleaning and passivation is usually the most effective treatment.
Q3: Does 316 stainless actually reduce maintenance vs 304?
The chemistry
Grade 316 has virtually the same mechanical, physical, and fabrication characteristics as 304, but better corrosion resistance — particularly against pitting in chloride environments. The difference is molybdenum, which makes 316 "desirable where the possibility of severe corrosion exists, such as heavy industrial atmospheres and marine environments". 316 is the second-most-popular stainless grade, roughly 20% of all stainless produced.
What that means for a bar-fridge buyer
316's main practical advantage over 304 is greater resistance to pitting and crevice corrosion in warm chloride environments, which is why it is chosen for sea-front buildings and fittings on wharves and piers. For a bar fridge within a few kilometres of the surf, that means slower onset of tea staining and fewer maintenance cycles.
The caveats matter. 316 is not "corrosion proof" in seawater contact — 316 and 304 are susceptible to localised attack, principally crevice and pitting corrosion, which limits their scope in seawater service. Even brackish waters carry chloride levels above the threshold for crevice corrosion, and evaporation in splash zones makes it worse by concentrating chlorides. 316 can also suffer stress corrosion cracking in hot chloride environments above about 50°C. The 304 and especially free-machining 303 grades should not be considered for seawater service at all.
For a buyer, 316 buys a wider margin for cleaning lapses, not immunity. The same care rules apply: clean along the grain, rinse away chlorides, dry, and avoid bleach.
Q4: Glass door care
Evidence is thinner on this one. No major fridge manufacturer publishes a dedicated page on cleaning a bar-fridge glass door, so the guidance below combines worldstainless's household cleaning FAQ, Liebherr's general fridge-cleaning instructions, and Vintec's cellar-care advice for the door seal.
The basic routine
Chloride-free glass spray cleaners are effective on mirror-polished stainless surfaces. On mirror-like finishes, glass cleaners perform well and a soft cloth or damp microfibre is usually enough. Apply cleaner to the cloth, not the door, so overspray does not run into seals, lights, or ventilation grilles. Do not allow cleaning water to enter the drainage channel, the ventilation grills, or any electrical parts.
Watch the coating language in your manual. Liebherr's SmartSteel guidance is explicit: use only a soft clean cloth on coated door surfaces, and never use stainless steel cleaner on SmartSteel. If your bar fridge has a coated or tinted glass panel, treat it the same way: mild soap or a chloride-free glass spray on a soft cloth, no abrasives, no chlorides.
The door seal — the bit people miss
The sealing strip around the door must be cleaned regularly to prevent discolouration and prolong service life, using clean water inside every indentation in the rib. After cleaning, check that the seal still provides a tight close. For mould in the seal, a 50/50 vinegar-and-water solution kills the spores, followed by drying and a sodium bicarbonate wipe. A leaky seal is more than a comfort issue: it costs energy and encourages condensation — and condensation is how chloride-bearing moisture concentrates on the steel around the door.
Q5: Keeping both the steel and the glass polished for years
For the steel, the best long-term strategy combines washing with a light protective step. Sub-Zero advises a polish after cleaning to maintain lustre and protect against future food stains, always in the direction of the grain. Products such as 3M Stainless Steel Cleaner and Polish leave a barrier film that minimises fingerprints. Bar Keepers Friend's method is similar: spray its Stainless Steel Cleaner and Polish onto the surface, wipe with the grain, then buff with the dry side of the cloth.
For high-traffic areas — the handle zone especially — lightly rub with olive oil or baby oil, followed by a polish and shine with a soft cloth. A thin oil film blunts fingerprints and adds a second line of defence against airborne moisture. The flip side: do not let oily hands, tomato splashes, or vinegar-based sprays sit on the surface. Stainless discolours when left in contact with salts or acids for extended periods.
The glass follows the opposite philosophy. No oils, no polishes, no barrier films — they all leave streaks. Use a chloride-free glass spray or a soft damp microfibre. A quick buff with the dry side of the cloth after each wipe-down keeps the door looking new.
Two universal rules sit behind all of this. Handle stainless with clean gloves or cloths to avoid stains and finger marks, and avoid oily rags when wiping. Where possible, rinse thoroughly with water after cleaning.
Q6: Black powder-coated or "black stainless" — does the coating reduce care?
Coatings are where the evidence gets thinner again. No industry body has published a dedicated paper on powder-coated residential refrigerator finishes. The closest authoritative sources are BSSA's general paper on painting and coating stainless steel and the appliance manufacturers' own black-stainless care instructions. The section below therefore avoids specific longevity numbers.
What "black stainless" usually is
In appliance-land, "black stainless" is a coating applied over a stainless (typically 304) or other steel substrate — not a separate grade. Two independent manufacturers converge on the same rules:
- Bosch: clean with mild soapy water and a soft cloth only; stainless steel conditioner must not be applied to black stainless, logos, or control labels.
- Whirlpool: mild soap and warm water on a clean soft cloth or microfibre, dried with another clean soft cloth to avoid streaking.
Neither brand permits chlorine bleach, abrasive cleaners, soap-filled scouring pads, steel-wool pads, gritty washcloths, or paper towels on a fingerprint-resistant coating.
Does the coating reduce corrosion care?
Somewhat, with a trade-off. Stainless is normally used because of its corrosion resistance without additional coatings, but in certain circumstances a paint finish is chosen deliberately. The catch: in certain environments, localised breakdown of the coating can lead to corrosion more severe than on uncoated surfaces, with high, localised rates of attack. A chip at a door edge can become the worst corrosion site on the fridge, rather than the best.
A fabrication gotcha becomes a care gotcha: stainless steels have flatter, smoother surfaces than carbon steels, particularly on thin cold-rolled products, which can hurt adhesion between metal and coating. Any paint system on stainless requires a roughened surface prepared by abrasive blasting, light hand abrasion, or chemical etching. For an owner: do not abrade the coating yourself, do not scrape chips with a knife, and do not use paints containing metallic zinc on stainless — zinc embrittlement of the substrate can occur in fire conditions.
Trade-off summary
A fingerprint-resistant coating hides fingerprints. It also introduces a failure mode the bare steel does not have: chip-to-rust. Cleaning is narrower — soap and water only, no conditioners, no abrasives, no bleach. The coating is both your warranty and your liability.
Cheat sheet
- Weekly: microfibre plus mild detergent, wiped in the direction of the grain, then dried.
- Monthly at the coast: a fresh, low-chloride-water rinse and dry, with extra attention to handle, hinge, and kickplate crevices where chlorides concentrate.
- Never: bleach, chlorine-based cleaners, carbon-steel scouring pads, hydrochloric or muriatic brick cleaners, or abrasive powders on a polished finish.
- For glass: a chloride-free glass spray or soft damp microfibre, applied to the cloth, not the door.
- For 316 vs 304 near salt air: 316 widens your chloride margin and delays pitting, but it is not corrosion-proof in seawater contact.
- For black stainless or fingerprint-resistant coatings: soap and water only, no conditioners or polishes, and protect the coating from chips.
Sources
- FAQ 2: Cleaning Your Indoor Stainless Steel (ASSDA)
- FAQ 6: Preventing Coastal Corrosion (Tea Staining) (ASSDA)
- 316: The First Step Up (ASSDA)
- Selection of 316, 304 and 303 types of stainless steels for seawater applications (BSSA)
- Sub Zero Appliance Stainless Steel and Platinum Cleaning (Sub-Zero)
- How to Clean Stainless Steel Appliances (Bar Keepers Friend)
- The Care and Cleaning of Stainless Steel (SSINA)
- Cleaning Stainless Steel in the Home (Euro Inox / worldstainless)
- Cleaning and maintaining your refrigerator (Liebherr)
- Refrigerator Maintenance: How to clean your fridge (Bosch)
- Cleaning Fingerprint Resistant Stainless Steel - Refrigerator (Whirlpool)
- Paint coating stainless steels (BSSA)
- Cleaning of exterior stainless steel (ASSDA)
- 6 Expert Tips For Cellar Care (Vintec)
- Understanding Corrosion - Chapter 4: Tea staining (worldstainless)
- Keeping It Clean (True Residential)